Key Takeaways
- Identify the Signs: Look for small round exit holes (1–2mm), powdery frass (wood dust), and weakened timber. These indicate active woodworm infestations.
- Assess the Severity: Light infestations may be treatable with surface treatments, while severe cases could require professional intervention and timber replacement.
- Choose the Right Treatment: Options include boron-based solutions, insecticidal sprays, heat treatments, and in severe cases, timber replacement.
- Prevent Future Infestations: Address underlying issues like dampness and poor ventilation, and consider using treated timber for future projects.
Would you believe that more than 75% of aged houses and 30% of modern homes in the UK have faced woodworm infestation at one point or another? It may sound unreal, but woodworms are a threat facing many homeowners across the UK.
These tiny pests weaken timber from the inside out, destroying furniture, flooring, and even the structural integrity of a home.
Whether you have noticed them on your property or want to take caution, recognising the signs early and knowing how to get rid of woodworm can protect your home and wallet.
In this article, we will define what woodworms are and teach you how you eliminate them completely if they ever infest your property.
What Do Woodworms Look Like?
“Woodworm” refers to the larval stage of various beetle species that tunnel into wood. These larvae feed on timber for several years before emerging as adult beetles.
What You’ll See:
- Woodworm larvae: Tiny, creamy-white, C-shaped grubs measuring 1–6mm. You rarely see them unless the wood is broken. These larvae have a soft body and are often mistaken for other pests.

- Adult beetles: These are small-sized black or brown insects measuring about 2–7mm in length. In Britain, the most prevalent species is the Common Furniture Beetle. You can identify it through its distinct ovular shape and prominent elytra.

- Exit holes: Small round holes (1–2mm) are left when adult beetles emerge. You will likely notice the several holes close to each other and they should tell you that you have an infestation.

- Frass: A powder-like substance typically made of beetle droppings and chewed wood. It usually appears below the affected timbers.

- Flaky or weakened wood: If you tap on the timber or wood and notice some crumbling, you most likely woodwarm infestation.

Where Is Woodworm Most Common?
Woodworm beetles like to attack timber or wood that is wet, exposed, or with poor ventilation. When looking for infestation, please check the following areas:
- Roof beams and attic timber: If these become damp, they offer the best breeding ground for woodworms.

- Wooden floorboards: If you are living in older homes where moisture levels are high, woodworms may attack and hide in the floors so inspect these areas.
- Skirting boards and door frames: These structural elements tend to hide infestations until you start noticing significant damage.

- Antique or second-hand furniture: Old furniture is usually at risk of woodworm infestations. You should be watchful when buying such furniture as they can bring woodworms into your home.

- Garden sheds and outbuildings: External wood structures are exposed to the elements, making them very prone to woodworm infestations.
Note: While woodworms tend to invade unprotected timber, there is always the possibility of attacking even protected timber especially if they are damp or when condensation sets in. Always maintain all the wooden elements in your home and inspect them for infestation regularly.
How to Get Rid of Woodworm
There are two main approaches: DIY treatments for light, surface-level infestations and professional help for larger or structural issues.
Choosing the right method depends on the extent of the problem and the location of the damage.
DIY Woodworm Treatment: Step-by-Step Guide
If you’ve found woodworm in furniture, a skirting board, or a single beam, you can often handle it yourself using one of two effective treatments:
Two Common DIY Treatments
- Boron-based insecticide (liquid, gel, or powder)
- Permethrin-based insecticide (usually ready-to-use)
What You’ll Need
You can buy a complete kit from Screwfix, Toolstation, or Amazon. A typical kit includes:
- Boron-based insecticide: Needs to be mixed with water. Available as a concentrate or gel.
- Permethrin-based insecticide: Usually comes pre-mixed and ready to use.
- Application tools: A brush or spray bottle (some kits include both).
- Injector nozzles: For deep injection into affected wood.
- PPE gear: Gloves, dust mask, and goggles.
- Instructions manual: Follow the safety and usage guidelines carefully.
UK Price Range: £20–£50 depending on size and coverage area (usually 5m²–25m²).
Step-by-step instructions
Identify Affected Areas
Search for evidence of infestation like exit holes, wood powder (frass), and softwood. You can gently tap the wood or timber with a screwdriver to identify soft areas.
Prepare the surface
Clean out thoroughly with a brush or vacuum. Clear out frass and dust to enable the treatment to penetrate fully into the wood.
Mix the Boron treatment (If using)
Dilute 1 part boron concentrate to 4 parts water to make 25% strength.
For heavy infestations, make a 1:3 (33%) proportion but ensure you do it according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Stir until completely dissolved before use.
Use cold water and only prepare what you require for the session.
Note: If using Permethrin product the mixing step may not be necessary as the treatment comes ready to use.
Set Up Your Equipment
Wear gloves, goggles and a mask. Work outdoors or open windows to maintain your safety.
Apply the treatment
Use a spray bottle or brush to apply the treatment to the affected areas.
Concentrate the treatment on cracks, joints, and points with numerous exit holes.
Inject the Wood (optional)
Drill into the wood and inject product using the nozzles. This makes it easy to reach larvae far into the wood.
Let It Dry
Most of the treatment products dry in 6–8 hours. Do not touch or repaint the surface until then.
Repeat, if Necessary
Apply again in 24–48 hours if the infestation persists or want to be more sure.
Improve Ventilation
Woodworm moist environment. Use a dehumidifier to eliminate moisture.
Other Natural Methods
Vinegar Solution
A 1:1 solution of white vinegar and water can be used to address very minor surface infestation issues. Although it is not an outright solution, it acts as an insect repellent.
Spray and air dry. It is safe for decorative pieces.

Heat treatment
Woodworm larvae die above 50°C (122°F).
You may warm up small wooden objects using an oven (at a low temperature) or expose them to direct sunlight for some hours.
Drying the wood
Woodworm prefer damp environments. Keep woods and timber in areas with low humidity and dry conditions. Drying in a kiln reduces the chances of re-infestation.
Professional Woodworm Control
When there is extensive infestation or damage to structures, it is better to call in a specialist.
What to Expect:
- Timber inspection to determine the extent and the depth of infestation. A professional will do a comprehensive evaluation of infested areas.
- Use of industrial-grade insecticides, applied through fogging or injection, ensuring comprehensive coverage.
- Treatments for inaccessible or internal timber, that are sometimes hard to reach with DIY techniques.
- A guaranteed treatment certificate, typically lasting 10–25 years to offer peace of mind against future infestation.
UK costs
Prices differ according to property sizes and the extent of damage. Generally:
- Small areas: £300–£500
- Medium homes: £500–£800
- Larger or older properties: £800–£1,200
- Timber surveys, if charged separately: £100–£150

DIY vs Professional: Which One Is Better?
| Feature | DIY Treatment | Professional Treatment |
| Cost | £20–£50 | £300–£1,200 |
| Best for | Isolated, visible infestations | Structural or widespread issues |
| Skill Level | Beginner-friendly with care | Handled by trained specialists |
| Time Required | Few hours to 1 day | 1–2 days, including drying time |
| Guarantee | No | Yes, with a certificate |
| Tools & Gear | Basic PPE and applicators | Advanced chemicals & tools |
| Results | Effective on the surface | Deep-penetrating and long-lasting |
Tip: Start with DIY if the issue is localised. But call a professional for multiple rooms, attics, or timber beams.
How to Prevent Woodworm
Prevention is cheaper and easier than treatment. Here’s how to protect your home from reinfestation:
- Keep wood dry: Use dehumidifiers in basements and attics to reduce moisture levels.

- Fix leaks promptly: Plumbing and roof leaks create ideal beetle environments, leading to infestations. Regular maintenance of pipes and roofs can prevent this issue.
- Improve ventilation: Ensure proper airflow in enclosed spaces to discourage dampness. Consider installing vents or leaving doors open when possible.
- Seal or treat bare timber: Apply a wood preservative when installing new or refurbished wood to protect against beetles.

- Check second-hand wood: Especially antique furniture or vintage floorboards, as these items are often untreated and susceptible to infestations.
- Inspect yearly: Spring and summer are peak beetle emergence seasons, making it essential to check wooden elements annually.
FAQs
What are the signs of a woodworm infestation?
Look for small round exit holes, powdery frass (wood dust), and weakened timber. These indicate active woodworm infestations.
Can I treat woodworm myself?
For light infestations, surface treatments with boron-based solutions or insecticidal sprays can be effective. However, for severe cases, it’s advisable to consult a professional.
How can I prevent woodworm infestations?
Ensure proper ventilation and address any dampness issues in your property. Regularly inspect timber structures for early signs of infestation.
Is timber replacement necessary?
In cases of severe infestation where timber is structurally compromised, replacement may be necessary to ensure the integrity of the structure.


